Sizable chunks of grace to make upbeat styles and bold statements – such are the ornamental sensibilities of the new-age brides and the likes of her.
This time around, the shimmery shaadi ka mandap and the glittery aisle to the stage seem to be glowing brighter than before. Aah, there she goes — our bijoux-smitten bride, dazzling her way to take the wedding vows. As always, her sparking lehenga-choli and ghunghat are the showstopper of the evening. But it’s the bolder and upbeat extensions of her bridal finery that have now taken the centrestage, quite literally! The necklace-turned-crown tikka in vintage gold covers her hairline while the ghunghat recedes back a little to showcase its metallic accompaniment. The neckline of her choli willingly accommodates the statement jadau neckpiece and the henna motifs on her hands delicately embrace the palm cuffs.
It’s a sizzling razzmatazz and there’s radiance in abundance everywhere. Inspired by vintage and transformed by novelty, these exquisite bijoux creations are the new sense and sensibilities of style divas in town. However, many industry experts dub statement jewellery as an eternal trend. Samir Sagar, Director and Spokesperson, Manubhai Jewellers, says “In India, the royalty of the country have always been donning statement jewellery where a single piece makes up for everything. Women flaunting these exemplary pieces like headgears, matha pattis and maang tikkas were always idolised by the folk of the region. This is why statement jewellery has been a trend for bridal wear since eras.”
As the ultra-modern brides and their leading ladies choose to dress up their ornaments with extra-large chunks, quirky styles and bold statements, Plan Your Wedding unravels the treasure chest of stunning jewellery for you.
Now, Drape the Tikka
Maang tikka is indeed one of the most universal ornaments in Indian wedding wear. North or South, East or West, if it’s Indian wedding, you can invariably spot foreheads dotted with chained pendants dangling along the parting of hair.
Mira Gulati, Founder and Principal Designer, Mirari, feels, “Maang tikkas gives a complete look to the bridal outfit, further adding a royal touch. India is a land of cultural diversity where traditions and rituals vary from place to place. Tiara is one such form which is worn by bride, especially in West Bengal. It is mostly made of styrofoam with hints of unusual hues; others may be enhanced with paint, embossed, crystals and even embroidery. Maatha patti is another popular style worn by the brides of South India. It signifies modesty and enhances the feminine beauty. These can be either made in the pattern of a kasumala or in the form of jadau jewellery engraved in precious stones.”
With multi-layered, chain headgear going strong this season, Tanya Rastogi, Director, Lala Jugal Kishore Jewellers, Jewels of Awadh, vouches for a headgear with 9 – 10 chains, for that ultimate diva look. “This along with a very dusky yet elegant make-up makes an instant statement. Tanya, who’s also a panel member at the Indian Bullion Jewellers Association, further suggests, “With an anarkali, one could opt for just a single huge maang tikka, almost the size of a bangle which covers one’s entire forehead.”
“Multi-chain tikkas, where multiple chains hold up a heavy pendant, look extravagant. These are inspired by Mughal jewellery and complement anarkalis well,” explains Kapil Hetamsaria, CEO and Co-Founder, VelvetCase.com.
“Tiara tikkas give a very Indo-Western look. A simple delicate tiara tikka in diamonds can look very elegant and sophisticated with a saree and a more elaborate one with polkis and pearl can work well with lehenga-choli,” suggests Ishu Datwani, Founder, Anmol Jewellers.
Styles for You
- Tiara or crown tikka attached to the hair in two separate strands, settled on the head like a crown
- Dauni or two elaborate chains joining at forehead with a tikka and falling along the hairline. It beautifully complements Banarasi and Kanjeevaram sarees.
- Thick belt with one or two pairs of chains on each side
- Rabari (tribe) style for an asymmetrical ethnic twist.
- Another asymmetrical style is the side maang tikka.
- Drape style tikkas with borla in centre best with loosened hairdos.
- Convert your necklace with pendent into tiara for cocktail dos!
Get the Perfect Asymmetry with Jhoomer
With its origins in Pakistan, a jhoomer is basically an ample-sized triangular-shaped tikka worn to dangle on one side of the head. Jhoomers are trending in a big way, adding a glamorous touch to bridal and festive outfits with their asymmetrical orientation. In fact, jhoomers and chapkas perfectly complement anarkalis, shararas and ghararas. Another style popular among Muslim brides is the hijab tikka and jhoomer, whichhas its origins in Islamic cultures. And here’s an interesting titbit: ‘jhoomer’ takes its name from the Jhoomer dance that originated in the Punjab region of Pakistan.
Darlings, still need some inspiration? Well, don’t you remember, Diya Mirza and Soha Ali Khan made a striking style statement on their D-days wearing jhoomer? You see, there’s always a strong Bollywood connection to every fashion!
Styles for You
- Three-strand jhoomer with one central piece and smaller ones on the sides
- Heavy chapka with trinket detail
- Multiple strands parched high, sliding off-centre and attached to a pendant
- Elaborate drape-style jhoomer with strands attached to maang tikka on one end a resembling tikka on the side end.
- How about experimenting with a jhoomar by wearing it like an oversized tikka or accessory for your hair bun or plait?
XL Neckpiece for Sizable Appeal
When it comes to Indian bridal jewellery, necklace is the most central of all adornments. To get the texture of your neckpiece complementing the bridal outfit is the topmost priority though. And here’s the catch! If your neckpiece is a treasured heirloom, you may want to choose your wedding outfit to match its design! However, heavy neckpieces are no longer confined to bridal wear alone. In fact, these have become boho chic and quirky showcases at hip-n-happening social dos!
Kapil illustrates the varied designs of the chunky neckpieces and the styling possibilities. “Bib necklaces are crafted with precious stones and pearls. These go best with off-shoulder gowns usually opted for pre- or post-wedding cocktails. Rani haars, crafted with precious and semi-precious gemstones like emeralds and uncut diamonds, are another great option, giving the bride a royal look.” Kapil and his team recently designed sets of breath-taking jewellery for TV actresses Drashti Dhami and Sanaya Irani for their weddings. “Drashti gracefully teamed a royal polkichand set with her red outfit while Sanaya looked absolutely stunning in a golden lehenga accessorised with a bridal uncut polki set,” he informs.
Akshay Kothari, Director, Hema S Kothari, points out, “Choker is another heavy necklace which gives more of a traditional touch to the bridal outfit. This close-fitting neckpiece is very versatile, settles high on the neck and goes well with deep or low-cut neckline cholis. Manga malai ormango haram, a traditional jewel piece from South India, is crafted in diamond, rubies and emeralds, and gives a phenomenal look when teamed with Kanjeevaram sarees.”
Styles for You
- Oversized single vintage pieces with pendants
- Multi-strand splendours
- Quirky and over-the-top sturdy designs
- Stone-studded multi-tiered pieces with multiple pendants
- Elaborate pearl strands covering the entire yoke
- Asymmetrical peacock-style neckpieces
Handful of Haathphool
The elegant haathphool is yet another bridal finery that’s become a big rage among the new-age dulhans. From vintage styles to Indo-Western blends, there are myriad varieties available in the market.
Mira traces the history of haathphool to “Persia where it was adorned by the dancers to emphasise their hand gestures while performing. Soon it was embraced by the Nizams, who added diamonds and pearls to exuberate wealth.” She further suggests, “The brides can explore the traditional kundan or jadau to give a royal outlook. If you are an adventurous one, you can try keeping it minimalistic with white gold or platinum, which can be worn on other occasions too.”
If you wish to go light on jewellery, some statement pieces can work really well. “These can be coupled exceptionally with diamonds, more than any other jewels, even though precious and rare stones can be used extraordinarily well to raise the level of grandeur in the piece,” suggests Tanya.
“Haathphools are certainly coming back in fashion. For the wedding day, a bride should go for a classic and traditional haathphool with uncut diamonds, coloured stones and pearls. The traditional haathphool is also being reinterpreted in more contemporary designs with a fusion combination of uncut diamonds with coloured gemstones, pearls and diamonds and are even being made in plain diamonds to give a more western look, which can work well for a Sangeet ceremony or reception. For a cocktail evening or parties, one can wear contemporary diamond palm cuff, which is a unique variation of haathphool,” recommends Ishu.
Styles for You
- Single-strand kundan haathphool for minimalist appeal
- Floral-themed one for a vivid look
- Elaborate vintage pieces for royal persona
- Contemporary palm cuff for a chic getup
Ringing in the Bold Look
If kitsch raises your eyebrows, then how about vintage kitsch! Well, you may pop out your eyeballs but our bold brides are in no mood to shy away from experimenting when it comes to finger rings. Cocktail rings and finger cuffs are a big sensation these days. Go for cuffs that fit into multiple fingers or pick one that covers a single finger to ‘ring in’ the fun element.
“For statement rings, this year takes it to the next level when it comes for design. It can be caged ring where other gems can be encased in sapphire glass,” informs Mira.
Styles for You
- Yellow gold sun ray ring
- Rose gold bubble ring
- Platinum cage ring
- Round Druzy Diamond ring
Big, bold and beautiful – enjoy the myriad styles of fashion and fun in jewellery this season!
The article was originally published in Plan Your Wedding magazine.